Question for 'Gear Gurus'

Need some guidance from the ‘Gear Gurus’.

Recently bought the TB EVO 5 from fellow forum member with the Mamba brushless. Other than being a land rocket (which was fun). Iam gonna slot in the 13T Hobbywing brushless.

1-Car currently has a 96T spur. What would be a good starting point for the pinion? I run 3600 mah Lipo packs. I’am used to 32,64 & 48 pitch lingo. How does that convert to .4 ,.6 pitch. (Gear chart attached)

2-What pitch is the TB Evo 5, TT01 & the MO5.

3-Also looking for ‘shims’ . Toys and Us are selling the blue center shaft that have 3-4 shims in the pack. But I might need some more. (item BN5 in the diagram)







Thanks in advance!

There were a few questions and answers of the same topic HERE

Tamiya's 0.6 and 0.4 modules are almost the same as the 48P and 64P respectively.
But don't try and mix them up. They are NOT the same pitch. You'll damage either the pinion or the spur if you do so. It may seem ok at first but you'll find that the stronger material is "eating" the other one (usually the spur).

1. With regards to FDR, i think somewhere between 5.8 and 6.0 is a good starting point. You can adjust from there depending on the conditions - track, temperature et. al.

2. The TB Evolution 5 MS is running on a 0.4 Module. The TT-01 series and the M-Chassis both run on 0.6 modules.

3. In the manual, there are part numbers listed. It's on page 26, Look for the "Shim Bag" It's 53587 for the BN5 shims.

IMO, there are no great difference between gear pitches in terms of performance. The finer pitches just gives you more adjustability in terms of the FDR. So you can zero in on the FDR that works for you.

Hope these help.

Sam,

When I was looking at your car the other day, I thought I saw it running on a 0.6 mod spur...can you take a pic and shove it on here?

To simplify the pitch, understand that tamiya has it's 'own' pitch, but they are sometimes interchangeable.

0.6 Mod = Big teeth, less chance of stone damage, noisier, less ratio options
0.4 Mod - Small teeth, suffer from debris damage, quieter, more ratio options

Getting 0.6 mod steel pinions is easy, 0.4 more difficult.

I prefer the 0.6 as most of my cars can use them, and on a 64T spur you will have more than enough gearing options by changing the pinion. Any more options is a little bit of overkill for our application, but personal choice is key.

On your car, a 64T Spur (0.6 mod) with a 26T pinion will give you a good ratio of 5.99, I would say that is IDEAL for the 13T Hobbywing on that track, but might need adequate cooling.....

Shims = Tamiya part number 53587, rcmart has stock and they are VERY useful because you can use them to take slop out of the driveline, and the driveshafts.

The 10mm ones are 53588 and are what you need to shim up the diff halves....

cathurga wrote:

Sam,

When I was looking at your car the other day, I thought I saw it running on a 0.6 mod spur...can you take a pic and shove it on here?

yup.. maybe he changed it to the 0.6 module of the TB-03.

Thanks guys! Will chk which spur I have got on the car.

Here's the part where the shims are..

Ok guys just chedked my set up.

On the TB EVO 5 i have a 64T 0.6 Pitch spur. I will run the 13T Hobbywing with the 24 T pinion that Andy leant me.

Will c if any of the local hobby shops have .6 pitch pinions tomorrow.

I have 0.4 Tamiya pinions in 24,25,40,41 T . All new in pack. Anyone wanst to swap with 25,26 T 0.6 pinions?

Thanks once again everyone...!

I got a yeah racing 9.5t motor. Just wanted to ask if i can use my stock pinion/spur gears or should i change them?

hakkai1982 wrote:

I got a yeah racing 9.5t motor. Just wanted to ask if i can use my stock pinion/spur gears or should i change them?

You can use your stock pinion & spur for now

Ok thanks.. I also noticed that the ESC is heating up with just about 3 minuites of running? Is this normal?

hakkai1982 wrote:

Ok thanks.. I also noticed that the ESC is heating up with just about 3 minuites of running? Is this normal?

If you havent changed anything and all is stock, Im sure the heat your refering to is just normal.. But If you really want to solve your heat issues I suggest you get a fan for your ESC. For the motor any heat sink will do, I never used fans on motors.. too much of those just shortens your run times

I just recently change my ESC fan because of thermal cut-off, my ESC will stop working after 3 rounds on the track and i noticed the small fan attached on it is not working so i replaced with bigger and faster fan (Yeah Racing Tornado Fan) and also i add aluminum plate (from old heat sink) on the existing heat sink.

These are small modification you can do and for sure it will work to lessen that heat on your ESC. And also check other option like getting small pinion or bigger spur, higher FDR = High Torque/Less Top Speed or Lower FDR = Less Torque/More Top Speed.

I think on drifting between 6.5 to 7.5 FDR is the best range and anything higher or lower will put more pressure on your ESC. High End ESC like Mamba Max Pro can handle this.

Computing FDR for your car is another story... Hope this will help you...