Problem with new motor and another question

Heyy...
I just finished installing my new 9T brushless motor. Everything is fine, but as soon as I lift my finger off the trigger, the car comes to a stop immediately. And it sounds like the pinion gear is kicking the spur gear right in the face (annoying noise between the teeth in short). I used the program card that came along, I've tried to weaken the brakes, but the car still stops immediately.

And what makes deans/t plugs better than 7.2v plugs? Because that's what I just put on my Lipo batteries...

AdBull.

try to remove the pinion and install it again and make sure that the meshing is not to tight try to put paper in between the pinion and spur and rotate it gently.

try checking the chart provided for the proper position of the screws for a certain pinion gear..
about the motor, i think some of the guys would be able to help with that..

I tried removing and replacing the pinion according to the chart, it's still the same...
AdBull.

How much of the pinion gear should be in contact with the spur gear?
AdBull.

are you using a 64P or 48P?

O_o
Which one is the stock tamiya one? It's a 61t spur gear, tha' is all I know...And a 19t pinion.
AdBull.

@bandik, he's running a tto1e.. stock gears.. 48p..

which motor/esc are you using AB?

did you put the motor screw same hole as before ?

Hobbywing EZrun 9t Brushless motor, and Hobbywing EZrun 9t ESC for brushless motors..
AdBull.

I don't know what I had before J.Drift.
But I followed what it said the manual (I did the same last time, so I think I put it in the same holes).

AdBull.

follow the chart for the TT01 thread maybe you did noy put the motor screw in proper position (maybe the pinion & spur is too tight)

AB can you try removing the motor and try to run it without the gears. just check the motor if it running.

Can only be 1 of 2 things....incorrect pitch gears, or incorrect mesh.

J.Drift, like I said, I've that. It didn't help unfortunately...
Bandit, I tried it when I took it out of the box, it seemed to function perfectly then. I'll try it again when my battery is charged.
Cathurga, can incorrect pitch gears really cause that much of a problem? If so what would recommend to counter it?
And what exactly is "incorrect mesh"?

Sorry guys, it's my first time trying a new motor, not faimiliar with all this stuff
AdBull.

That's always the case. . . . it happened to eathan's tt01 also. . . i think it's because of the power of the motor. . . . its best not to run your motor, while your kit is not on the ground, . . . it will f*^k up you spur and pinion. . .. best when you test it, make sure your car is on ground so there is a bit of friction between the motor and the ground. . .

Thanks Chardiboi...
I've noticed the problem. Wheneve I press the trigger (even the slighest bit), the motor runs at MAX speed...I don't understand why that's happening....
AdBull.

Just to explain why pitch and mesh are important..

Pitch is defined as the distance between a point on one tooth and the corresponding point on an adjacent tooth.
Basically, two gears should have the same pitch to work properly.
If they are not of the same "tooth distance", a gear tooth will hit another, and another, and another and so on until the weaker material gear gets all chewed up.

Mesh refers to how the gears get contact with each other.
This dictates how smooth the rotation will be.
A tight or a loose mesh will lessen the efficiency of the motor.

That's it for now. You'll learn more in college.

check the settings in your remote.. I'm sure there is a setting there that would lessen the amount of throttle with the distance traveled by the trigger..

Lance is correct 100%....

Tamiya pitch on their standard kits is a little bit weird, it doesn't really fit any traditional pitch, but 0.6 module as advertised by sellers is closest. By standard kits I mean the entry level stuff. The TRF and high end kits use a 0.4 module. The pitch basically means what lance said, or the SIZE of the teeth relative to the 'size' of the pinion. If the teeth of the pinion and spur are not the same size, they cannot trasfer the power and grind each other to pieces.

Dont get too confused about the differences but for your requirements, just check part numbers in the manual, and order accordingly, or ASK for help.

If you are using the kit provided pinion and spur, then they are not meshing correctly. It means that the pinion is either too close to the spur and there is no free play between them..it is too 'tight'. If there is too much free play then just the tips of the teeth are contacting, and excessive wearing will occur.

Someone mentioned before, an easy and 'fairly' accurate way to get the mesh right is to put a piece of normal paper between the pinion and spur, and then tighten it up. the paper should be able to come out when you roll the gears, without causing binding.

If you have a TT-01, or another car with a motor mount that has pre-set motor locations, and you are having meshing problems, then you have the motor mounted in the wrong mount holes. CHeck your manual, there should be a gear chart with the correct mounting combinations. If you change either the pinion OR the spur OR both, you will need to mount the motor on a different place. In the TT-01 instructions there are 4 mounting points, labelled A, B, C or D.

If your motor revs to top speed as you pull the trigger in, it more than likely means you need to calibrate the ESC OR you have the punch setting on your Tx set wrong. Reset all the settings on your Tx, and then go through the steps to set your ESC as per the instructions.

Calibrate after using manual program card -

replace unreliable connections even if they are stock, and shorten them

one extra thing to do

a corcle shape magnet , the wire comes from the ESC to reciever, let the wire gets around the magnet for some rounds before it gets to the reciever, this will stop the back electric flow to ESC. i sow it on air plains

one thing to make sure, reversing the two wires going from motor to ESC (two of three which are minus and plus not the ground) if the reversing is more power full try to switch those two wires, just in case

Wow! Thanks guys, very helpful posts!


BUT...Let's forget the pitch problem for now.
Because I've noticed that the motor stops immediately when I lift my finger off the trigger (even when it's NOT connected to the spur, like, when I'm holding it).
And I've also noticed that the second I touch the trigger, the motor runs at MAX speed, but NOT in reverse (it's perfectly fine in reverse).
When I connect the wires (yes I connected them correctly), the motor runs "mirrored". Meaning, when I press the trigger, the motor "goes backwards" and when I "push" the trigger, the motor "goes fowards"...Basically it turns in the wrong direction.

I've solved that, the manual says swap any two wires( it's got a total of 3, it's sensorless), when I do that, it runs fine. But when I press the trigger even the slightest bit, the motor runs at MAX, but NOT in reverse.

I've tried using the program card, I still can't get it right...I'll do something about the pitch once I get the motor soreted....

Anyone got a solution? Real desperate guys...I got all the gear I wanted and now I can't use it....*cries*....
AdBull.

reset it manually simmiler to mamba max throtle break range adjust , not the scrowing in the transmiter,

We can ignore pitch for now, but dont do any testing until you have that correct. Bear in mind that BL motors do NOT like running without a load....it hurts them.

Sounds to me like a calibration issue. The fact that it is going into full speed means that the ESC does not know where the end points are. Additionally, if you have that throttle 'Punch' or variable throttle function on the Tx set to max, it will got straight into full speed.

I would:

Reset the radio. Go to the selcted model and RESET all the settings.
Follow the manual. Reset the ESC and then follow the steps to recalibrate the ESC. In most cases, in calibration mode, the motor will not run. If it does run while you are trying to set it, you are NOT in calibration mode. Start again.
DO NOT run the motor without a load, you will cook it.


What motor/esc combo is this? Another no-name brand like the radio?

I'm not using the that radio -.-
The motor/esc combo is Hobbywing..Hobbywing EZRUN 9t brushless, ESC and program card. It's on RCmart, you can have a look at it there.

The radio I'm using is pretty old, it doesn't have model memory (my new one has model memory, but I'm not using it). It's only got a servo/steering trim thing, and throttle trim thing.

Anyway, the motor doesn't stop immediately, so that's fixed. But it still hit's max speed the second I touch the trigger.

I'll try caliberating the ESC. Oh, and I've tried resetting it...That doesn't help.

Yeah, I kind ov' figured I shouldn't run it with that sort of load on the motor, I run it freely now, the spur gear doesn't like that crazy pinion.

Thanks, will post an update after the caliberation process.
AdBull.

also,

if you can adjust the EPA, lower it a little, my motor had a similar problem of going max but it was ok after a while, try dailing it down a little through ESC and your program card but follow up on what others are sugestin