Diff Discussion

i have an extra ball diff set with me which came with the kit.. placed on the rear then replaced it with a spool. maybe ill replace the front one-way with the ball diff for now.

one-way is important for drifting so i will still need replacement. but when i use the evo with FOW for touring i spin out when breaking lol so what i do is just release the gas in advance when entering corners, no late braking!

i cant really combine the two setups so i really need a seperate kit for touring

Agreed, ball diff or spool required for touring, one way for drift. I dont think I got a spare ball diff with mine,.....damnit.

the best is, spool front and balldiff on rear!

Bandit wrote:

the best is, spool front and balldiff on rear!

Doesn't that cause understeer?

AdBull.

do not question the king!!!!

lool bandit

King Bandit....

Allow me to rephrase my previous statement, for the sake of clairty:

Touring - Front spool, rear ball diff
Drifting - Front one-way, rear locked ball/gear/spool.

Abdul Basit wrote:

Doesn't that cause understeer?
AdBull.

you can always adjust the front toe setting to lessen the understeer.. having a front spool will help you car be more stable in a straight line.. but still, this depends on the driver's preference.. you can not tell somebody that his settings are wrong as per your driving style..

"to each is his own"

front spool avoid spinning when breaking :cheers:

laNcELot wrote:

you can always adjust the front toe setting to lessen the understeer.. having a front spool will help you car be more stable in a straight line.. but still, this depends on the driver's preference.. you can not tell somebody that his settings are wrong as per your driving style..

"to each is his own"

Toe in will make it more stable in a straight line, toe out give more steering when entering corners.

KING OF POP? hahahahaha!

Ahhhh..I see >.>
What do you guys use to measure camber, caster, toe in, toe out and stuff?

O.T...AAAAH! Sorry >.<

AdBull.

Bandit wrote:

laNcELot wrote:

you can always adjust the front toe setting to lessen the understeer.. having a front spool will help you car be more stable in a straight line.. but still, this depends on the driver's preference.. you can not tell somebody that his settings are wrong as per your driving style..

"to each is his own"

Toe in will make it more stable in a straight line, toe out give more steering when entering corners.

KING OF POP? hahahahaha!

Rear toe in DA KING?

yes lance toe in for rear am i the Scorpion King? hahahahah

AB this is the one you will use.



http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-system-hudy-universal-exclusive-touring-cars-109305-pi-22451.html?picID=1

take for example my TRF

i built the Diffs in the wrong way so as to under steer the car on turn in, so i have to use my power to lose grip, but having understeer on a belt means that im gonna have stability on the straights, it also means that once i start a drift i have to fight to keep the car sideways using combined throttle and steer since the front is pulling harder the the rear

like what lance said......each drivr has their preference, i like an added challenge....instead of trying to get the kit to suit you....why dont you try adjsting your driving style to the kit, there has to be some sort of compromise between machine and driver, but you still have to strive to get the best setup you can and from there yu start to adjust your driving style.....

being a DK doesnt happen overnight, it takes some time depending on how your circumstances are between yourself and your kit

so... since this thread is about ball diffs... how tight you should apply to your diffs for touring?

my current set up now is F/R ball diffs super tight

from my understanding, tight diffs means less spin of the wheel that has less traction. so more push while going thru turns.

less spin, less lose of power right?

yip less spin does equal more power!

Generally, you can set the front diff a bit more loosely, as most of the drive force comes from the rear of the car. You can also use the tightness of the front diff as a tuning aid. To make the car easier to drive, run the front diff tighter. This will smooth out the steering and make the car pull out of the turns better. For more responsive steering, especially in tighter turns, try running the front diff more loosely.

When running in high-grip conditions, and wheelspin isn’t an issue you can set your diffs tightly.

You can check ifyour diff is set correctly by holding the spur gear and one of the driven wheels and try to turn the opposite wheel—it should be very near to impossible to do so.

Lots has to do with the track, and the surface.

Most people will use a spool front and a normal diff at the back. This is a good setup if you have lots of traction, and a tighter track.

On a looong sweeping track, with not as much traction a tighter rear diff, and front one way is great on a stock car. In this format though, you will have difficulty braking. This setup is perfect for the Al-Ain track.

The best starting point will always be wht the manual says, and then make adjustments from there.

Bear in mind, the tighter you make your diffs, the more difficult it is for the car to turn, you will experience understeer, and tightening up the diffs puts a LOT of strain on all the drive components. It is only good on the front diff, in tight tracks.

My advice for unknown surfaces is neutral setup (Automodx).

Take care when building ball diffs, the thrust bearing needs AW grease, the balls need diff grease. The balls must rotate smoothly over the diff plates, any rough movement (sandy) or out of alignment (tighter in some places) and you will need a rebuild.
The diff action should be that when both diff halves are held still, you should be able to move the gear, but not easily. It should require some force. (Have it a little looser will result in a Limited Slip Diff scenario..a different kettle of fish altogether)

I used to be a FOW user.
But once I got to understand how the COW works, I don't think I'll be switching back to FOW anymore.

...Josh, how does it work?

...I've already bought a FOW

HOW TO LOCK A PLANETARY GEAR DIFFERENTIAL

Before attempting this yourself, you need to know that if ANYTHING goes wrong, or if anything breaks, you CANNOT blame me for it. You are actions are not something I can be held responsible for.
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The job of the differential, in simple words, is to allow the wheel it is connected to, to rotate at different speeds. And that increases traction which in turn prevents the tail from kicking out during turns.

This is what a TT01 differential looks like:


There are a few ways to lock such differentials.

1) To permanently lock it using a DIY method (very reliable! Impossible to unlock it during a run!)
2) To temporarily lock it using a DIY method (less reliable)
3) To temporarily tighten it using a DIY method.
4) To buy a direct drive, spool, diff locker (lots of terms) to lock it. (very reliable, it MIGHT break if you use 3rd party ones).

Now on with the tutorial.

Method one: Temporarily lock it:

To temporarily lock the differential using this method, you need the following things:

1) Nitro fuel tubing.

I'll be using the TT01's differential as an example.

Step one: Remove parts MA13 and MA11.

Step two: Place the two pieces of fuel tube before the MA13 and MA11. the only goal here is to stop the planetary gears from turning, essentially creating a spool diff that would normally cost a pretty penny.


Step 3:
Just pop everthing back in it's place, leaving the nitro fuel tubing in between. If it's too tight you can always trim the fuel tube a little to get the perfect fit. Reassemble the chassis and your all done. Now when you turn one wheel the other should turn at the same time.

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Method 2: Permanently lock it:

To permanently lock it using this method, you need the following items:

1) Strong glue. (JB Weld, hot glue gun, etc.)
2) Adult supervision is strongly advised. Hot glue guns, etc. Should be handled with care.

Step one: Remove GB4 and MA12 from the differential. Everything seen on the left side of the picture should stay in.

Step two: Add lots of hot glue into the left side, making sure that MA13 and MA12 are completely covered. Do not add too much, otherwise it might become really hard to re-assemble the differential.


Step three: Re-assemble the differential.

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Method three: temporarily tightening it.

To temporarily tighten the differential, you need the following:

1) Nitro fuel tubing.
2) Scissors.

Step one: Cut some nitro fuel tubing (has to be the right size) and place the little pieces in FRONT of the MA13 gears. So the fuel tubing is in between the MA13 and the center of MA11.

Step three: It should be a VERY tight fit or it will not work. Re assemble the differential as you would normally. Make sure the nitro tubing is in BETWEEN all the MA13 and the center of MA11.

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*Planetary gear differentials are mostly found in entry level kits. Such as the TT01, HSP flying fish, etc.
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For now, that is all. Will post a tutorial about locking ball differentials tomorrow.

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For one, it leaves you with NO brakes whatsoever, not good if you are on a tight track, but useful on an open track tht speeds allow you to get by with no brakes.

Al-Ain would maybe qualify, but only in a class where the top speed is not RIDICULOUS-speed.

Ahh..I see. Thanks.

Never mind, I think I need breaks, helps you when you screw up that transition on the S-curve.

Abdul Basit wrote:

...Josh, how does it work?

...I've already bought a FOW

Didn't I explain it to your before? =/

Well...it gives you more 'handling options'.
Unlike the FOW where-in you are giving a 'fixed' way of using the one-way system.

The COW (along with the ball diff) will give you the option of adjusting the 'strength' of the one-way.

So in the case of Master Jay.
Instead of switching from FOW to Balldiff every now and then...
He can just adjust the tightness of the ball diff according to how much he want's to use the one-way.

=)

Oh yeahhh...Sorry, forgot.

Well, I haven't tried the FOW on road, ever..So guess I'll find out when I get it...I just hope I don't hate it.

Cheers.

Spool: Less turn in when entering a corner, good when exiting corners.
Benefit: You can brake very late, used on tight (indoor) track.
Disadvantage: lots of strain on the drive train and understeer.

One-Way diff: More turn in on corner entry and exit, more steering overal.
Benefit: higher corner speed, used on big flowing track.
Disadvantage: can't brake late and not in corners.